Did I mention I'd been to Glasgow?

So yes, Stravaigin on Gibson Street, round the corner from Glasgow University student's union. Bar up top which we did not sample (we are good little corporate drones, and had found another bar anyway), restaturant below street level. The stairs were steep and narrow, with no sign of a lift, so not accessible to anyone without good mobility: having said that, if you asked I'm sure they'd serve you in the bar at street level, there were plenty of tables.

Starters: pan fried baby squid, with a squid-ink dressing, and overnight-cooked lamb with spelt and mint salad. The squid was lovely, fresh and with well-judged acidity in the dressing. Didn't try the lamb but liked the spelt salad: firm and almost crunchy, and the mint wasn't too prominent.

Mains: one haggis, neeps, and tatties; one Belhaven Best-battered fish and chips; one crusted hake with chorizo and potato fricasse and a garlic and almond. All excellent of their kind, and I can believe their claim that the haggis was their own make. I had the hake and it was firm and flavourful, not overdone, while the chorizo and potatoes were bursts of salty fatty goodness to go with the (only relatively!) bland white fish.

Dessert: a salted peanut, caramel and chocolate tart with amaretto icecream; a plain icecream (the trio of sorbets had sold out); a coconut and lemongrass polenta with ginger sabayon. The description of the polenta was misleading: it was lemograss polenta, formed, rolled in desiccated coconut and fried (and served hot). Very good though, and a presentation I shall cheerfully steal. Icecream and tart all said to be good (but salt and caramel is definitely a cliche by now, not that that stops me buying Art du Chocolat's salted caramels).

All up, for three people, with a bottle of perfectly good red, £90: for the same quality of cooking and presentation you could easily double that. Also you get to go on the subway!